The cross of the streets Szewska, Karmelicka, Krupnicza, Podwale was my middle part of Cracow.
I love this point where one can meet tourists and real Cracow live. My favourite places were situated around Bagatela theatre. There are theatre bakery, bookshops , photography and clothe shops, library, churches, colleges, touristic office, tram stops and of course restaurants, pubs and coffee shops. This area has many places where I can eat something and enjoy and meet with my friends.
On Karmelicka street close to the theatre there are three bars where sometimes I had lunch. There are “Polska kuchnia”, “Bar rybny” and “ Lunchowisko” in the neighborhood. “Polska Kuchnia” serves traditional polish food. There is a menu in English. I liked to order pierogi and meals with herring. Decor inside is still in communism style, but it is clean and nice.
Opposite to Kuchnia Polska is “Bar rybny” (fish bar) where only fish is served. Maybe they don't have wide selection but they always have fresh fish. All are served with frying or cooking potato and salads. I remember this bar from my childhood when my granddad took me there for dinner. My granddad loved fish. When I was five years old I tasted salmon and cod first time in my live. They were delicious and very expensive because that time sea fish was a luxury stock.
There is also a sweet bar “Czarodziej” on the same street. They serve a wide selection of sweetness and polish cakes, desserts and beverages. It is good place for evening coffee and talking with friends. The “Sweet bars” offer delicacies so popular in Poland like kremówka, ekler, chocolate cake, cheese cake, doughnuts. I loved to eat there a cream dessert with raisins which is called “deser słutański”, it is so tasty.
The best place for me for meeting and eating is “Dynia” on Krupnicza street. It is austere place with beautiful garden. All there is simple: decor, garden, and also food but everything is tasty. The front of this restaurant suggests small interior but inside it is huge and there is lots of intimate tables. I love so much a green garden which looks like a wonderland. During spring and summer this place is a piece of forest in heart of the city.“Dynia” is very good place for breakfast, lunch, diner and meeting over coffee or wine. Menu is typical Mediterranean with polish influence. Chefs serve healthy and light food. When I had a bad day I used to go to “Dynia” and I order coffee, sit in the garden or near the window in winter and contemplate silence. It was good therapy for me.
I recommend you this place when you visit Cracow. This coffee bar is open all day.
Next to Bagatela Theatre we find “CK- browar”.This is a pub where I often went with my friends and guests.
It is situated in deep cellar and it makes impression of the gate of hell. Underground this place is dark, noisy, stuffy but enjoyable. It is typical beer pub but there is also a restaurant and night club area. There is a good selection of old polish food, I recommend you especially schabowy with cabbage. There is small brewery as well and you can try beer which is served in special way. The waiter brings a pipe with beer to use it by yourself. This is good idea for budget party of any kind: birthdays, graduate party, stag party, hen night or other. The parties are often sponaneous and don't require advance booking. This pub houses about 500 people in the some time. History of this place is short. It was open in 1996, but owners furnished pub in nineteen century style when Cracow belonged to Austria- Hungarian empire. CK means Imperial King it was knighthood of Austrian emperor. We can find the marks and traces of Habsburg's empire in the whole pub. There are portraits of last Austrian king and decor is like art nouveau style. I love the atmosphere of this deep cellar.
It is my Cracow: modern and vintage, old and young, fast and slow, magic and realistic.
I invite you to visit my city and see this miraculous place. See you.
My subjective guide on restaurants in Cracow - part 1
My subjective guide on restaurants in Cracow - part 2