Dine at Peter Gordon's

London always means good memories to me and this time was no exception. This January visit to UK was my shortest ever but the most memorable so far. I got up from a bus at Baker Street where I worked in the past. The vicinity has changed a bit. I realised that when I stopped by a new Gourmet Burger Restaurant. The brand busted from 27 premises when I was working there to over 50 today including those in Greece, Ireland and the Middle East. Of course there was no way to resist. The meat has changed over the years from Aberdeen to West
  
Country Beef and the sesame bun has changed a bit but the general taste impression was nearly the same. Their gourmet sauces still are my favourite. While in London you need to try a GBK burger. Than I checked my old time favourite spots, Daunt Books on 83 Marylebone High Street and Fromagerie on 2-6 Moxon Street. An hour later I was gazing at red gournard and Saint Jacques at FishWorks shopping window at 89 Marylebone High St. And finally I got to The Providores and Tapa Room at 109 number of the same street, my main destination. 

 

Believe or not, but the owners Peter Gordon and Michael McGrath were just sitting by the table busy with the papers. Luckily the co-owner and the executive chef Peter Gordon (yes, the fusion cuisine’s father) had enough time to chat about his work and the second restaurant, Kopapa on 32-34 Monmouth Street in Covent Garden. I was given his latest book, Everyday which is great because I have already eaten all of the dishes from his A World in My Kitchen :-). Despite being so busy Peter is writing a foreword for my New Zealand’s cookbook that will be printed out in March. Next time  you will be holding my book, Sir!

 

Yumm, yumm, yumm, couldn’t I leave without tasting? No. Waiting for my dish I was admiring the space of the Tapa Room which is on ground floor and serves smaller dishes. The name comes from a Polynesian cloth made of block printed and hand beaten paper mulberry bark. A huge piece of that hangs on the wall and make you feel eating with the ancestors’ spirits. The upstairs more formal dining room is called The Providores and serves equally delicious, perfectly designed dishes. 

Helping myself with the menu I knew what I was served. The description shows Peter Gordon’s distinctive style combining products from all over the world. I have tried the kohlrabi and onion bhaji with plantain and date salsa, sumac yoghurt and pomegranate mint sauce. The small work of art, resembling a fried pyramid was surprisingly chewy and chrispy at the same time. I was particularly interested in the use of sumac which is completly unknown in Poland and I had huge problems how to use it when I brough it from Bosnia 3 years ago. The spice proved to be much more aromatic here! I loved the date salsa. Did you know that there are green dates edible?

What can a pastry lover say… that the dessert was superb. The poached quince, broken with vanilla pod, perfectly combines with ginger creme brulee. And the mountain range shaped pistaccio and orange ricciarelli biscuit heats the atmosphere. I was overwhelmed. You could only take a New Zealand’s style coffe – a flat white with it.

Then I stock myself with New Zealand’s and Australian foods from the Australian Shop at 27 Maiden Lane and drunk my favourite L&P. I envy the British that they have Waitrose shops supplied with, watch out, fresh New Zealand’s lamb livers and kidneys (6 GBP/kg) and fresh New Zealand’s clams (11 GBP/kg)! Today I am celebrating the Australia Day with Arnott’sTimTams.
  
I dream that all this stuff will be available one day in Poland. You and me we need to create the demand. Ask frequently and keep asking various greengrocers about New Zealand’s kiwifruit, papaya, guanabana, feijoa. Keep asking for New Zealand’s cheddar at the grocer. It is possible to get it. Today I got the phone call from my African grocer. He got the fresh breadfruit for me. This is the first time I am not importing it from Berlin for a fine restaurant but I will buy it for myself in a regular, small shop. He have it more. Go for a breadfruit on Monday, 27 General Anders St, Warsaw.

Best greetings to Lorraine, Peter, Michael and all the staff at the Tapa Room and many thanks for making my stay so enjoyable and tasty.

Under the grill

The more I cook the less I write, sorry! You are welcome to pop in for a tea instead!

My favourite food magazine, New Zealand’s Cuisine, has a nice short interview column titled Under the grill. I liked the latest issues so much that I decide to answer the questions (almost the same every time) myself. I guess the answers don’t change much with time.

When did you first become interested in food?

There where few episodes in my teenage years smashed by overbearing parents and the lack of groceries – I grew up in a small village far away from everywhere. Then as a history student I got tired of non-illustrated books and began buying colourful magazines. Then I was trying to impress my boyfriend. Maybe the kiwifruit tarte helped him to make a decision of marriage? And with my first job in the kitchen I totally fell in love with cooking. 

What’s your first food memory?

When I was a child food was simple and not so diversified. I was raised in the countryside so I recall milk fresh from the milking, hot and fat, the incredible strawberry jam and bread with butter and sugar only, vanilla sugar and semolina porridge. These are the first. My menu has changed much and often from that time.

What is your ideal party menu?

I rarely cook the same thing twice. I prefer aboundance and a huge choice. I had twice prepared a  party consisted of 25 dishes. Usually I would serve few starters, one main and again the choice of desserts. For the starter a savoury muffin, for the main a simple pasta with a nice sauce and then I have time for several refined desserts! Last time I served pizza muffins, meaty pasta with courgette, vegetarian pasta with broadbean, New Zealand’s lemon snow, roasted peanuts brownie and rhubarb pie.  

Who would be your dream dinner guests?

There are many of them, alive, and they pay us visits every now and then. And for the deads, I guess my three favourite poets, Mieczysław Jastrun, Tadeusz Chudy and Władysław Broniewski. For another party I would certainly invite Gaius Julius Caesar and Octavian Augustus.

What’s your pick of food destinations?

Big eclectic cities like London. This is where I learn most and where cookbooks and resources are easily available. When I travel for food I want to experience it very intensivly. In a big city you can meet not only the region’s cuisine but all of the world. My dream is to visit Melbourne and Singapore.

What’s the worst food crime?

There are many I guess. I particularly hate serving hot dish on a cold plate, carelessly washed lettuce and serving meat reheated or kept for some time under the grill meat. I prefer it straight from the pan!

What is coming next in the food world?

Sharpening the division between fast food and good food. Food prices may drive us towards old methods and skills at homes but shops will be full of junk food. 

Why did the chicken cross the road?

To check what’s on the other side!

Answer yourself!

Lithuanian Honey Kvass

I wouldn't like to die too soon. There is so many things to try, to eat! Grass-smelling olive oils, crispy ethnic breads, strange fruits, wild meats and  papaya moonshine. I couldn't tell what I would like to have for my last supper. Two of my most beloved dishes were... chocolate desserts while in a properly disigned meal you are supposed to have only one dessert. Certainly I am not going to die because of hunger. I am going to try as much I can through my whole life. Egg starters, so popular decades ago when it was not so easy to cook in old-fashioned kitchens -  so basic yet so tempting as so many others. Not to mention our Lithuanian red beetroot blinis -haven't you heard that the British version of  the beetroot blinis was served last Friday in Buckingham Palace with salmon rosettes?

Following some request, I come back to bread matters but from a different perspective. Kvass generally is known as a Russian beer made from rye and barley must or from soaked and fermented black bread. It is dark in colour, slightly alcoholic (0,5-1,05 %) and has a bitter-sweet taste considerably depending on the bread used. At home you use freash yeasts and sugar to drive the fermentation process. In Lithuania they got a plethora of recipes for their refreshing drinks. As soon as the warmer period comes, it is late spring, they put a kvass to develop.

Lithuanian Honey Kvass

150 ml fair honey

1,5 l water

3 g fresh yeasts

30 g washed raisins

half of one lemon

1. Dissolve honey in a boiling water (you don't have to boil it). Cool down to 30 Celsius degrees.

2. Pund yeasts with about 5 tablespoons of the tepid honey water and leave for about 20 minutes in moderate temperature (about 20-25 degrees) to start working. When frothy add to the rest of the honey water, cover with a cloth and leave at the same temperature for 24 hours.

3. Remove the froth from the surface, strain through a sieve covered with a cloth (do not pour in the rubbish from the bottom). Pour into clean, dry bottles, with few raisins per bottle. Close tightly, place in a cold place and wait. This kvass is the best after 5-7 days and keep well in the fridge for another week. 

I would suggest a plastic bottle as you will see the pressure inside the bottle would rise. Be careful while opening it as you would open a beer can. I used the plastic drink container with gasket and immediately after sieving I put it to the fridge, it worked very very well. Certainly your friend will be surprised where the hell you got this nice and cheap chateau from a plastic bottle!

This is a noble kind of kvass, it is said that is's best after seven days, I found it best after five, maybe ageing went faster because of the temperature in my flat (around 26 Celsius degrees). It has a distinctive honey taste, is ideally sweet and at the 5th day it has an appropriate amount of little bubbles. You would feel a tickle in your nose and changes in your body's weight later. Generally honey kvass tastes like a nicely balanced white wine. Just please remember, there are other varieties, like caraway seed kvass, cranberry, apple juice, mint&tarragon, whey (!), red beetroot, carrot...You would forget the Coke exists. Unless you would find yourself on a tropical island - then you would discover an absolutely different refreshing drink. But this is totally different story...

Paris cafe

I read in painters' biographies about Paris cafés. I dreamed about Montmartre cafés full of artists, eccentrics and discussions about art and philosophy. When I was on Montmartre, I found some cafés from the nineteenth century. Only the name or décor was the same as in books. Customers and discussions are different from the ones in the past. Artists are also other than in the nineteenth century. They don't do uncompromising art but cheap art for tourists. I was very disappointed.




After this experience I was afraid to visit the La Dome café which is a very famous place. It was a big surprise to see full of memorabilia décor. The waiter was a very polite man. We felt like queens in this place. We spent two hours on discussions about art. There were artists around us. Old women were writing poems and drinking morning coffee. A young lady was sketching a portrait of her friend. A man who was near us was talking probably with an art dealer by phone. When we were leaving, a group of young people with easels came to the café. So, I dreamed about that typical Paris morning.



One day we visited the Notre Dame Cathedral. It was too early to fully admire the stained glass windows. We decided to wait and to go for coffee. We found the Esmeralda café. It was a sunny day and this café was very bright. We ordered coffee and enjoyed the sun. The aatmosphere was nice but the coffee was a little sour. We talked about Esmeralda’s story. We recalled scenes from “The Hunchback of Notre-Dame” written by Victor Hugo. We planned to find places form these scenes in the Cathedral. We found some of them.



The last café which I visited in Paris was the “Three mills café”. You probably know this café form movies about the charming Amelia. Her portrait is in every place of the café: on the menus, on the walls. I thought that this café is probably a very touristy place. I was surprised because we met many Parisians inside. They were drinking morning coffee. There were only a few typical tourists. They were sitting in the corner and taking pictures under the big portrait of Amelia.
This Café has a wide selection of coffee. We ordered these types which we had never tried: coffee crème with amaretto, cappuccino with ginger, and cappuccino with cherry. They tasted nice.
I could sit like that for a long time because the atmosphere was wonderful but I had to go back to Dublin.



This post is my last story about my trip to Paris. I believe that I will come back to Paris soon.
Edi and Marek - thanks for this amazing time which we spent together.



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French cheese
Paris is sweet.

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My subjective reviews about restaurants in Paris

Paris, Paris, Paris
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French cheese

You remember Meg Ryan in the „French Kiss” movie. She felt happy in France after eating cheese for breakfast. It all ended up with a stomach upset. There was a hilarious scene with French cheese and lactose intolerance.


I had a similar experience to the one in the movie but I am not allergic to lactose. My journey between the airport and the hotel was terrible. In the first instance I hated the French. When I arrived at the hotel, I was angry and hungry. My friends waited for me with a plate of French cheese and fresh baguettes.



After this very late breakfast, I felt happy and open to new experiences.
I have loved cheese since my childhood. My grandma made cheese. I was the first person in my family who tried smelly cheese form France. In my family I had a nickname – mouse.



We found many shops with French cheese on Lepic street, the same place where there is the “Three mills café". It was an amazing view for me. Big counters full of many kinds of cheese. I wanted to try every one, but it was impossible. In France you can find more than 1000 types of cheese. Every day we tried other types of cheese and we were so happy that our hotel didn’t serve breakfast. I brought to Dublin about one kilo of different types of cheese and a customs officer at the airport looked at me as if I were a mad woman.


Maybe I should start new a series about cheese? Do you want to know my opinions about cheese?



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Similar Posts:
Paris is sweet.

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Paris is sweet.

Paris is sweet. That’s true. On every street you can find some shops with sweets.
Chocolate, macaroons, croissants, cakes, cookies - you must try something every day. How do the French make it that they aren’t fat? I don’t know, but I know why they love sweets.

In every famous part of Paris I saw macaroons in every bakery and confectionery kiosk. Macaroons are small cookies made from egg whites, icing sugar, granulated sugar and almond powder. A macaroon is commonly filled with butter cream or jam filling sandwiched between two cookies. In Paris they were made for the first time by an Italian chef for the wedding of Henry II and Catherine de' Medici in 1533. In Paris the French confectionery Laduree is well-known for making quality macaroons in traditional and new flavours. I didn’t try macaroons from that confectionery but I ate them on Montmartre. They are very delicious and light, but the price of a single macaroon is very high. Maybe I’ll try to bake them.
Currently a box of macaroons is a very fashionable souvenir from Paris.


An éclair is a more common pastry. It is a long thin pastry made from choux dough filled with cream and topped with icing. An Éclair is very popular in Poland. I often bought it in a confectionery near my university in Krakow. I tried éclairs in Paris and the taste was the same as in Krakow. I was so proud of Polish confectioners. The éclair originated in France in the nineteenth century. It is a popular type of cake served all over the world, but only in Paris and Poland its taste is amazing.


Probably nobody knows that a very popular croissant is a Polish idea. In 1683Austria celebrated the Turkish defeat of the Polish forces in the Turkish siege of the city. A Polish diplomat Franciszek Kulczycki convinced a baker Petera Wendela to make buns in the shape of a crescent moon, similar to the moon from Turkish flags. This is only legend. How the croissant was invented is a secret.



The truth is that the croissant origined in Austria. When an Austrian artillery officer, August Zang, founded a Viennese Bakery at 92, rue de Richelieu in Paris. This bakery served Viennese specialties including the kipfel, the Vienna version of croissant. It quickly became popular and inspired French imitators. The French version of the kipferl was named after its crescent (croissant) shape and it has evolved into puff pastries.
Parisian croissants are ones of the best which I have ever eaten.


I always like Opera cakes. I tried the first slice of this cake at my uncle's wedding when I was 6 years old. I first tried to do it when I was 12 years old.
In Paris I tried the French version of an Opera cake, but I still don’t know which version is true. I have several recipes for this cake: my French family, recipes from cookery books and the Internet, but every one is a little different. Maybe you have true recipes of the Opera cake?




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Parisian bakeries
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Parisian bakeries

I fell in love with Parisian bakeries. They are in every part of Paris. These are small bakeries with shops at the front with large display windows. The display window, which is full of sweets, tempts potential customers. You must stop and even look at these miracles of the confectionery artistry. When you go inside, you can find there not only sweets but also fresh bread, French sticks, croissants and everything is in a few sorts. Every bakery is a bit different. One sells only bread and croissants, the other has a wide selection of sweets and sometimes you can find a part where there is a café or bistro.

Near my hotel there was a bakery where there served sandwiches and hot takeaway food. Sandwiches were huge, with fresh salads and a few levels of ham or cheese.



But my favourite bakery on Monmarte is Coquelicot on Des Abbesses street. This is a bakery with a small bistro on the first floor. Every time I was there, the bistro was full. So I could never try hot food in that place. But I tried a wide selection of bread, baguettes and croissants. There are the best croissants in Paris. There I also ate brioche and Magdalene cakes.



On the Saint Louis Island I came across ten or more confectionery kiosks in one street. I saw the Louis cake in every place. It is a chocolate cake with chocolate on top. Louis has amazing taste and it is available only on this island.

A special street where I found many bakeries is Saint Honore street. In the past it was a bakery district. This street is very long and you can find not only bakeries but also restaurants, bistros and wine shops.



I found there the award-winning bakery of Jean Noel Julien. This bakery is as a fairytale kingdom of sweets. Excellent display windows tempted pedestrians with beautiful cakes. The smell of fresh bread invited us inside. The bakery was full of people who wanted to buy some of the wonderful sweets. I bought a chocolate cake. It was one of the best cakes which I have ever eaten.



When I came back to Dublin, my suitcase was full of Parisian bread, croissants and sweets. I know, maybe it looked like a mad idea but when you first time try French bread and sweets, you never cease to yearn for them.

In the next post I will write about my favorite French cakes in detail




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My subjective reviews about restaurants in Paris

I spent four days in Paris. Paris is a very interesting and huge city and I could see only a few places during my trip.
In next posts I’ll write about my other experiences from my visit in Paris. Today I am going to write about restaurants where I ate.

Paris as the capital of cuisine has many restaurants. I saw very expensive and cheap restaurants. In the capital of France there is a wide selection of restaurants ranging from the typical French cuisine to exotic one from Bangladeshi.

On Montmartre where there was my hotel I came across restaurants with Turkish, Indian or French cuisine.
French or Indian restaurants are places where you can eat good and healthy food, but Turkish bars serve typical fast and stodgy meals. What surprised me most was Clichy boulevard where there is Moulin Rouge. There are many fast-food bars.
This street is tourist-oriented and restaurants have many clients and are expensive. The restaurant which I had found by the Internet before my trip was closed, so we had to find another place. It was Saturday night and I and my friends had big trouble finding any restaurant in this district.

Finally, we found a free table in Royal Trinité on Châteaudun street.
The restaurant was almost full and everything looked typical, but the waiter was a little impolite. We were too tired and hungry to look for another place. As starters we ordered salads with fresh vegetables, for main course we had duck and steak. The salads were fresh but without sauce so we had to ask for olive oil. The duck was dry and the mushroom sauce tasted like instant one. The steak was underdone and also dry. The waiter, after serving the main course, ceased to pay attention to us. This experience resulted in the fact that we stayed away from places where meals for tourists were served.



The next day we visited the Latin district. It is a beautiful place with restaurants which have Michelin stars. There are many Japanese restaurants in Paris. We came across these types of restaurants near the Luxemburg garden and the Opera.
They were expensive and full of elegant people. I was surprised at the popularity of these restaurants in Paris. I think these places are a good alternative for people who want to eat fast and healthy food. But we wanted to try true French cuisine.


In the Latin district I found a restaurant “Cremerie Restaurant Polidor” on 41 Monsieure-Le-Prince street.
This restaurant was opened in 1845. Inside we found decor coming from the nineteenth century. A very polite waiter who spoke English showed us a long table where there was a Parisian family. We sat together with these people and we felt as a part of this family.
The food in this place was amazing. My friends ordered beef with pepper sauce. I ordered kidneys in madera sauce. My dish was served with very delicious potato puree. Aditionally, we ordered Melba desert as the other people at our table. I think that dinner was typically French and we ate it among Parisians.


The following day we visited places near Louvre. This is a very tourist and fashion district and finding a nice restaurant in there is difficult. My friend who studied in Paris gave me an address one of her favourite restaurants near Opera avenue, but this place was closed on Monday. However, on the next street we found Bistrot Richelieu. Inside there were only people who spoke French but the waiter spoke English. He recommended us terrine as a starter. It was amazing pork liver with something else what was a secret of the chef recipe. This time I ordered steak and chips, my friends had tuna and beans. The steak was well-done and very good.
For dessert we got very tasty chocolate mousse. Now “ Richelieu” took on a new meaning for me and it means good French bistro.


The last place where I ate in Paris was an Italian restaurant near Champs Elysée’s. Maybe it sounds weird that I ate in an Italian restaurant during my visit in Paris, but why not. We found this restaurant by accident. We were on Champs Élysées where there are very expensive restaurants, so we went to the next street. Because we were very hungry and tired, we decided to go to the first restaurant which was not too expensive. “PastaPaPa” was the first restaurant which we found on the next street. The place was nice and warm. We ordered ravioli, truffle pasta and four-cheese pizza. This order was our mistake. We got huge portions. My ravioli looked like a portion for two people. After this dinner I felt gargantuan, but the food was very good.

In next post I’ll write about bakeries in Paris.



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Paris, Paris, Paris

Tomorrow I’m flying to Paris. It is my first time in the world capital of cuisine. I want to visit several places related to my culinary passion. I will also see the most popular tourist attractions.

Paris is sweet.



In childhood I associated Paris with sweets and French sticks. My aunt who lives in France sent me sweets at Christmas. When she visited my family, she taught my grandma how to make croissants. In high school I ate French sticks with jam on lunch - it was my diet. In cookery school I learned about La opera cake, éclair, macaroons and many more traditional French sweets.

Ilona familiarised me with Poilâne bakery and I want to see that special place .
I think that I’ll visit bakeries and confectionery kiosks many times during my trip.




Café life in Paris



My passion is also the 19th and 20th century painting. I have read biographies of many artists from that period and for me French artistic life means café life. At that time many Polish artists studied in Paris and afterwards they moved Paris lifestyle to Krakow.
So I’m familiar with café life very well.
In Paris I particularly want to visit Café du Dôme. This restaurant was visited by many famous artists like Paul Gauguin, Pablo Picasso and others. And I‘ll go to the café “The Two Windmills” which is famous for the “Le fabuleux destin d'Amélie Poulain” movie. Also I’ll look for other artistic cafés on Montmartre.




Paris is fashion



My godmother always told me that Paris means fashion. When she went to Paris, she came back with additional suitcases full of dresses, sweets, wines. In my wardrobe I have two dresses from her trips. They are twenty years old and still are in fashion.
But probably I’ll focus on groceries because I don’t like shopping for clothes.
I want to find a good wine shop, as well as the Fauchon and Lanotre shops.



Next week I’ll tell you about my Paris discoveries.